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Piotr Morawski

High altitude climber and photographer

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My photos

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Born in 1976, he started to climb in 1996, and winter climbing quickly became his passion. The first high mountaineering expedition he took a part in – to Chan Tengri (6995 metres), a mountain on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan - was organized by the Warsaw Mountaineering Club in 2001. Yet his career in the highest mountains began with a winter K2 (8611 metres) expedition in 2002/2003. He went there as a greenhorn, but did well setting up Camp IV at 7650 metres with Denis Urubko. So far it is the highest point ever reached in winter on that second highest mountain in the world.
Over the next two years he took part in two winter expeditions to Shisha Pangma with Simone Moro - his partner and teacher. This cooperation gave him lots of experience, and in 2003/2004 this resulted in the first ascent of the South face of Shisha Pangma. A year later they summitted the mountain for the first time ever in the winter season. That was a great achievement and a continuation of the Polish Himalayan tradition. It is worth mentioning here that until now only 7 out of the 14 eight-thousanders were summitted in winter, and all by Polish climbers. Krzysztof Wielicki summitted Lhotse on New Year’s Eve of 1987 and since then none of the other giants has been climbed successfully in the winter season. Shisha Pangma was summitted as the eighth eight-thousanders after a gap of 17 years.
His [the author’s] high mountaineering skills developed rapidly over the next few years. It was during the Himalayan Trilogy in 2006, organised by his other teacher Piotr Pustelnik, that Piotr met Peter Hamor from Slovakia. They have been a perfect team ever since. Their aims in the highest mountains are getting increasingly more ambitious as they try to climb unpopular or brand new routes. One of them was the traverse of Gasherbrum I (8068 metres) in pure alpine style which was the first repetition of the Spanish and American route, and the first ever ascent in that style. They have many ambitious plans for the coming years.

Overall he has summitted six eight-thousanders so far. More information about the expeditions can be found in the Expedition part of this website, with some details also at the bottom of this page. For his sport achievements he has been given awards many times in Poland and abroad. His sports and climbing dreams have become reality thanks to Alpinus, with which he has been cooperating since 2007. He runs, cycles and takes part in marathons.

Photography is his second passion. He drags bulky cameras with him even to the summits of eight-thousanders and the fruits of his efforts can be seen in the Mountain Photography part of this site. He also gives slideshows at various mountain festivals, meetings and corporate get-togethers. His articles and photos have been published in a range of mountaineering, adventure as well as other unrelated magazines. For the last two years he has used only digital photography but previously he used to make slides. His collection includes unique photos from mountains and other places hardly ever seen by others.

Travelling the world was among his interests even before he started climbing and some of his journeys are described in more details in Travels. While on scholarship at Durban University, he had a chance to visit a part of South Africa. Due to climbing, his current interests are concentrating on Asia and Nepal, Pakistan and Tibet in particular. However, he hasn’t given up the Old Continent yet.

He works at the Physical Chemistry Division at Warsaw University of Technology as his PhD thesis examined "The influence of the shape, size and polarity of molecules on phase equilibria. The influence of the high pressure up to 1.5 GPa." He is still interested in thermodynamics, phase equlibria, mathematics and informatics. The list of his publications and conference presentations can be found here.

List of expeditions

*[2008] Gasherbrum II (8035) - normal route, with Peter Hamor, summited July 6th
*[2008] Gasherbrum I (8068) - traverse, with Peter Hamor, alpine style, beginning on Spanish route, via American route, descent by normal route (Japanese route), summited June 24th,
[2008] Annapurna (8091) - North-West face, Gabbarou spur, with Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor, Dariusz Załuski, the second repetition of the route, aborted 150 meters below the summit due to a ferocious storm on May 29th, two bivaques at 7700, just 400 meters of fixed ropes used.
*[2008] Ama Dablam (6859) - normal route, with Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor, Dariusz Załuski, summited April 3rd
[2007] K2 (8611) - new route attempt on the West face, after fast ascent via Česen route on the south face stopped at 8000 after 30 hours, August 10th, with Peter Hamor and Dodo Kopold
*[2007] Nanga Parbat (8125) - Diamir face, Kinshofer route, with Peter Hamor and Dodo Kopold, summited July 14th
*[2006] Broad Peak (8047) - normal route, with Piotr Pustelnik and Peter Hamor, during summit push on July 8th rescue action of an Austrian climber from the col at 7800, finally summited July 9th
[2006] Annapurna (8091) - East ridge, with Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor, Don Bowie, almost one week spent on the ridge above 7500, summit push on May 21st aborted below East Summit (8010), rescue action of a snowblinded Tibetan climber from the ridge. Only Peter Hamor summited
*[2006] Cho Oyu (8201) - normal route, with Piotr Pustelnik, Peter Hamor, Don Bowie, summited April 24th
[2005] Annapurna (8091) - South face, Bonnington route, with Piotr Pustelnik, Marcin Miotk, Vlado Štrba, aborted at 7300 metres.
*[2005] Shisha Pangma (8027) - first winter ascent, Yugoslavian route on South face, with Simone Moro, Jan Szulc, Dariusz Załuski, Jacek Jawień, summited January 14th (with Simone Moro)
[2004] Shisha Pangma (8027) - winter expedition, South face, Spanish route, first ascent of South face in winter season, with Simone Moro, Jan Szulc, Dariusz Załuski, Jacek Jawień, Pierre Bergeron, Yvon Latreille, summit push on January 17th aborted at 7700 on the summit ridge (with Simone Moro)
[2003] K2 (8611) - winter expedition, North ridge, Japanese route, the highest point achieved in winter season on K2 by climbers with Denis Urubko, camp 4 at 7650
[2002] Pobeda Pik (7439) - normal route, with Marcin Kaczkan, aborted at 6400
*[2001] Chan Tengri (6995) - normal route, with Marcin Kaczkan, summited

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